Growing Pinot Noir in Australia is always a bit hit and miss. After all, it’s a grape that shows its best in a cool climate, but even the so-called “cool climate” regions in our sunburnt land can be subject to significant seasonal variations. And the Adelaide Hills region in South Australia is no different despite its 600 – 700m of elevation. The 2008 production was as challenging a vintage as you’d hope not to see, yet with careful vineyard management, some vignerons still managed to produce a few extremely good wines.
So, given the climatic challenges of a 115-day heatwave just prior to picking, I was a bit surprised by the drinkability of the Tomich Hill Pinot Noir 2008. ($22)
It’s intensely red cherry on the nose and shows vibrant strawberry and dried Chinese red dates characters across the palate before a herbaceous canopy envelopes the finish. There’s a touch of tannin to support the back end and overall, it’s a winner despite the season’s adverse growing conditions.
Pinot Noir is never cheap due to it being a low yielding viticultural problem child, but as a food wine all-rounder, you’d struggle to find a better varietal.
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