Tolpuddle Pinot Noir, a gem in the Coal River Valley
With the shifting sands of consumer preferences, cool climate wines, once relegated to the obscurity of the back corner of the bottle shop, are finding themselves increasingly front and centre on the wine buyer’s radar. From the Macedon Ranges and Pyrenees in Victoria, to Great Southern in Western Australia, Orange and Hilltops in NSW and the Adelaide Hills in South Australia, there are a number of Australian wine regions doing great things with fruit from higher altitude vineyards. But if you’re serious about cool climate wines, I reckon Tasmania is undoubtedly the place where the oenological rainbow will lead you to the proverbial pot of gold.
To me, the attraction of cool climate varietals is their balance, aromas, spice and elegance. Generally, they have higher acidity – which means beautiful balance. Slower ripening means lower alcohol concentration than you typically see in examples from the warmer regions. On the palate, you’ll find delicate floral characters alongside spice, herbaceousness and a lighter body. Whether it’s pinot noir, chardonnay or pinot gris, cool climate wines will usually be fresh, lively and bright in the glass.
The definition of what constitutes a “cool climate” wine region varies a little around the world, but generally it’s accepted that in order to meet the definition, the grapes used must be from either south of 37.5 degrees south, or north of latitude 37.5 north. Otherwise, they must have an average growing season (July or January depending on the hemisphere) temperature below 19 degrees Celsius. Alternatively, the vineyard must be above 400m in altitude – though others say it must be above 500m. But whatever your definition, the vineyards of Tasmania undoubtedly fit the “cool climate” bill given that January average maximums only manage between 16 and 18 degrees – and even less in the elevated parts.
Trying to identify a favourite Tasmanian pinot noir is like being asked to name your favourite child. After all, the Apple Isle is blessed with so many world class wineries and their artisan winemakers. Only 25 minutes from the State’s capital in the Coal River Valley is a winery established and owned by a couple of industry stalwarts, Martin Shaw and Michael Hill-Smith AM, MW. Tolpuddle, established in 1988 and named after the English Martyrs – convicts sent to Tasmania to form an agricultural union – is quickly forging a global reputation for the quality and reliability of their chardonnay and pinot noir. Winemaker Adam Wadewitz has the luxury of being able to focus on quality rather than quantity, but achieves his remit consistently, making wines of exceptional poise, grace and elegance.
One of my best mates recently returned from a tour of Tassie with a bunch of the Tolpuddle 2021 Pinot Noir and graciously gifted me some “sampling stock”. I suspect that he had in mind either cellaring the six pack for a few years or later sharing over a plate of Peking Duck with Mandarin Pancakes – but Friday night rolled around, and the temptation proved irresistible – sorry Michael!
The 2021 iteration of the Tolpuddle classic is an austere edition. The intensity of sweet red cherries, rose petal and raspberry overwhelms the senses from the moment that the glass raises towards your pursed lips. Across the palate, the pinot develops characters of rhubarb, star anise and garam masala before hints of dried rosemary and oregano collide with earthy minerality and fine tannins on the finish. Bright, lively and youthful, the Tolpuddle prima-donna is as intense as it is pretty. The integration of fruit, acid and oak is seamless and the quality is undeniable. It’s a shame that the $95 price point precludes regular participation.
As the mercury rises and lighter reds become the order of the day, you could do worse than to find a cool climate pinot noir to take the edge off the working week; and there’s no happier hunting ground than Tassie’s Coal River Valley!