IT’S been a while (perhaps 15 years or so) since Wynns released a single vineyard “Harold” Cabernet. But after a lengthy hiatus, the 2013 iteration is bottled, labelled and soon to hit the shelves. And it seems that winemaker Sue Hodder is taking a new direction with the fruit from this premium parcel of Coonawarra vines.
Where cabernet from the region is typically bold, laced with white pepper and made in a tannic style, the Harold is graceful, fragrant and entirely fruit-focused. Earthy violet hints appear on the nose but graciously allow the blackcurrant and plum characters to assert themselves progressively across the palate. There are layers and layers of complex (yet understated) fruits, fine tannins and well-trained spices which marry a natural acidity and waltz their way to an austere Coonawarra conclusion.
It may not exhibit the richness and spiciness expected of the Terra Rossa soils it was spawned by, but at 13%, neither does it rely on alcohol to boost its mouthfeel. A gorgeous wine, though with a price tag that reflects its quality ($80).
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