Wines for the Earth-Conscious Palate

Sustainability is seemingly the catch cry of the younger generation, so I shouldn’t be surprised that in recent years, there appears to have been a resurgence of interest in organic wines. And it isn’t just Generation Z who eschew “adulterated” varieties; I recently had a professional colleague unashamedly describe her preference as “small batch, low intervention ‘biodynamic/organic hippie shit”. Perhaps no longer counter-cultural, these earth-conscious “flower children” are undoubtedly forcing winemakers to reconsider their attitude to low-intervention farming, despite the high cost of organic certification.

According to Biodynamic Agriculture Australia Ltd, biodynamic practices “continuously renew and replenish soil micro-organisms, creating a resilient and healthy ecosystem enabling nutrient-rich produce on farms and gardens throughout Australia”. The idea is to create a self-sustaining system where natural materials and composts are used to sustain the vineyard. Animals live on the soil and fertilise it, and pesticides are forbidden. Organic farming, on the other hand, is a little less demanding as it primarily requires the absence of synthetic inputs. Though to be certified as organic, there is a stringent process to be followed (and quite a high cost). This might be a bit of an oversimplification, but you get the gist. Whether you’re a disciple of the approach or consider it to be akin to witchcraft, the reality is that younger consumers are increasingly attracted to wines made in this “hippie” way.

My free-spirited oenophile colleague has no shortage of organic and biodynamic wines to recommend, but high on her value-centric list is a Fiano from the McLaren Vale in South Australia made by a small producer by the name of “Lino Ramble”. I didn’t know much about them, but they’re clearly of the persuasion that an old-fashioned friend of mine describes as “lentil eating bead wearers”. According to the Lino Ramble website, they are “flag wavers for future-proof varieties, we’ve chosen to work with growers who have a preference for organic and biodynamic farming”. The Lino Ramble wordsmiths say they are “inspired by growers who don’t see organic farming as a fringe activity; they see it as looking after their natural resource base, helping them buffer climate change”. You can’t deny their passion!

So, (to quote my colleague) what does a “small batch, low intervention biodynamic hippie shit” Fiano taste like? To be honest, much better than I was expecting! The 2022 edition of the Ludo Fiano is quite full-bodied and richly textured. On the floral nose, citrus and orange blossoms meld with honeysuckle characters and provide an enticing prelude to the pear, bush honey and toasted pine nut flavours that develop through the waxy mid-palate. I do like the way that a wave of acidity balances the mouth filling weight of the Campanian varietal through the lingering finale. And at the $30 price point, it’s probably fair value. If this is what “hippie wine” tastes like, I’m in!

As published in the Courier Mail.