If the ball-tearing, over-oaked, overdone and texturally repugnant malolactic style of Chardonnay bring a smile to your face and a tittle to your taste buds, then the Heemskerk Coal River Chardonnay 2012 is not the wine for you. But if you’re the discerning type of sophisticated white wine drinker who prefers the more refined and delicate Burgundian style of Chardonnay, then the Coal River (Tasmania) will be right up your alley.
While it seems an innocuous light straw green colour in the glass, there’s an unmistakable aroma of melon and a hint of rich tea biscuit (remember them?) on the nose. But with the first sip come citrus blossom and peachy flavours with a hint of pear and Pink Lady apple. And while the flavours are enchanting, the real hallmark of the wine is its superb balance, integrity and symmetry. There are no flat spots across the palate but a lingering, if not malt and honey finish.
Cheap wine isn’t good, and good wine isn’t cheap, so I guess the $42.50 price tag is predictable. I’m told that money can’t buy class, but surely this superb Chardy is an exception to that rule!
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