The simple tricks of clever winemakers can create mouth-watering styles of wine that often defy their traditional characters. And there aren’t too many better examples of uncomplicated viticultural stratagem paying handsome dividends in the bottle, than the Deviation Road Pinot Gris 2014.
Winemakers, Hamish and Kate Laurie, realised that Pinot Gris can be tightly wound up and quite acidic if picked early; but also, overripe and bordering on flabby if left on the vines too long. So, they simply picked their low yielding 2014 vintage in two stages at different points of the ripening process. And the result is magical!
The ripe fruit has delivered a delightful roundness to the palate with rich pear and lychee characters through the middle whilst the less ripened fruit has introduced green lime flavours and both ends of the consumption experience and allowed gentle acids to add structure, citric overtures and balance to a crisp finale. There’s an irony in the way that the under-ripe citrus tang has you sucking in your cheeks yet at the same time, licking your lips!
It’s a perfect summer afternoon apéritif and available in most major retailers at around $26 a bottle.
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