The shifting trend for cool climate Shiraz
Across the globe Australian Shiraz is synonymous with the Barossa Valley; a region with plantings that go back as far as 1843, and in which over half of all vineyards are dedicated to the varietal. It’s a style that is typically full bodied, ripe and bold, and emphasises ripe fruit, chocolate and earthy characters. Undeniably successful in domestic and international markets, Barossa Shiraz has kicked a lot of goals, from styles that sell enormous volumes to small-batch wines that have become amongst the world’s most collectables. But the pendulum swings, and there are signs that the sands are shifting. With one-time Shiraz lovers drifting towards cooler climate styles, could this phenomenon be at South Australia’s expense?
The most prestigious trophy that an Australian Winemaker can win is the “Jimmy” – the Jimmy Watson Memorial Trophy awarded at the Melbourne Royal Wine Awards for the best young red wine in show. It’s been bestowed upon some of the biggest names in the industry, and this year it went to a Shiraz made by a small producer in the Canberra wine region, Four Winds Vineyard at Murrumbateman. The fact that in 2023 the Jimmy went to a Pinot from Tasmania (Lowestoft La Maison) made me wonder whether it’s not just consumers, but the judges, whose palates are gravitating away from the ripe, jubey styles to those more refined and elegant?
Cool climate Shiraz are typically characterised by their higher acidity, complex flavours and finesse, while the warmer South Australian regions often deliver a fruit bomb of robust ripeness that is also generally higher in alcohol. Perhaps the shift is being driven by health consciousness, or maybe it’s that more adventurous palates are now shaping the market? Or is it possibly a trend towards the artisan small producers who emphasize sustainability and terroir? Whatever the reason, the star of the cooler climate wine regions seems to be exponentially on the rise.
I’ve long been a fan of the Murrumbateman wine region, and their Chardonnays and Pinot Noir in particular, so it was no surprise when the winner of the Jimmy was announced to be from district. What was surprising, at least to those on my table at the awards, was that this was judged to be the best young red wine in show. On the nose there are lovely characters of dark cherries, blackcurrant and pepper, while once on the palate, layers of blackberries, blackcurrant and olive emerge. On the conclusion, fine tannins and subtle oak ooze class, and balance the lively red fruits. But for my taste buds, the brambly herbaceousness was just too stalky and dulled an otherwise bright young wine. Interestingly, it wasn’t just me that thought so on the day! It’s a good wine, but I wouldn’t have voted it best young red in show! But good judges obviously held a very different view.
The red wine market is dynamic and evolving, and consumer tastes are changing. Does this emerging trend mean that cool climate reds could be the go-to choice of future generations of wine lovers?
Photo: Geoff Brooks, Unsplash