Champagne: Is the Sparkle Still Worth the Splurge?
As the mercury rises and we shake off the doldrums of short days, cold nights, and blustery westerlies, our collective palates seem to naturally gravitate towards sparkling white wines—champagne, to be precise! Spring is, after all, the season of weddings, racing carnivals, and anniversaries. But as my CEO recently lamented, “Champers has become so bloody expensive!” And unfortunately, that’s true. But why?
The laws of supply and demand play a significant role, but so does the global cost of living. In 2023, French Champagne exports dipped by 8% in volume after a bumper period during the post-COVID recovery. In 2019, the Champagne region shipped 297.5 million bottles, but that number plummeted to 245 million in 2020. The lockdowns sparked a dramatic recovery, with exports soaring to 320 million bottles in 2021 and growing slightly to 326 million in 2022. However, sales took a nosedive in 2023, dropping to just 298.7 million bottles. Yet, despite the decline, prices have only increased.
Like the rest of us facing rising costs, the Champagne Houses are dealing with higher expenses, which inevitably get passed on to the consumer. But it begs the question: Has Champagne been priced out of reach?
Despite the naysayers, I doubt Champagne will ever lose its appeal entirely. Fortunately, here in Australia, we’re blessed with high-quality sparkling wines that offer much better value. And there are plenty to choose from. At my place, guests are often treated to Howard Park Jete sparkling, which sells for around $40 a bottle. I love its creamy citrus and bakery notes, and the racy acidity that leaves a crisp Granny Smith finish. And then there are the Tasmanian contenders. House of Arras is setting the standard with award-winning bubbles priced from $39 to $277 a bottle! The House of Arras Brut Elite NV, at around $60 a bottle, is (in my view) as sophisticated and charming as anything our French friends produce.
If you shop at the big-box stores, Jansz is a reliable sparkling that routinely sells for less than $25 a bottle—and I’d rather have four of those than one of the imported French brands!
Spring has sprung, and it’s fizz time! But if you’re a Betty Bargain-Hunter who values quality without breaking the bank, Australian bubbles have plenty to offer. In fact, you might find they’re as good, if not better, than the entry-level Champagnes that flood our shores.